Dive into the heart of the Goulburn Valley’s culinary scene with Jan and Paul Phillips. Every Friday, the pair will serve our readers with their knowledge of our communities’ restaurants, cafés and pubs — one plate at a time.
Onn, Yao, John and Jia.
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John O’Donoghue grew up in country NSW, and his wife, Yao, was raised in a small village in central Thailand.
Though they came from completely different worlds, they somehow found each other — and discovered a shared love of slow living, good food and warm hospitality.
They met in Thailand when John was volunteering, fell in love, married and started a family before settling in Shepparton.
There, they ran The Last Straw Café for nearly two decades.
Locals came for the welcoming atmosphere, but stayed for Yao’s home-style Thai cooking.
Now, that spirit lives on at Chaar Long, their latest venture in Avenel, an hour south of Shepparton.
It’s a perfect meeting point for friends and family.
The name Chaar Long means ‘slow down’ in Thai — an ideal reflection of the life they’re embracing now.
“We still want to stay active and involved,” John said, “but we’re also at a stage where balance is key.”
That’s exactly what Chaar Long offers — a restaurant that reflects both their passions and their lifestyle.
Originally serving lunch Thursday to Saturday, they recently added Sundays due to popular demand. Booking are essential.
Chaar Long is a smaller, slower, more personal space where John and Yao serve the food their family eats — especially the regional flavours of Phitsanulok province, where Yao grew up.
The set menu changes regularly, guided by what’s seasonal and traditional, with a strong focus on reducing waste and showcasing lesser-known Thai ingredients.
Typically, you’ll be served four to five courses over a few leisurely hours.
On one of our visits, we started with Yao’s incredible vegetable curry puffs and spring rolls, followed by larb moo — roasted pork belly served on betel and cos leaves with nam jim jaew, a smoky-sweet chilli sauce.
The laksa that followed was so good we joked the true sign of excellence was that it ended up on our shirts — and it did!
We were a bit spoilt and ended up with an extra ladle each.
Then came charred chicken with a magnificent Thai chilli sauce, and to finish, coconut ice-cream with jackfruit and sticky rice.
We were there with my dear friend Donna, whose son Jack is in a relationship with John and Yao’s daughter, Jia.
Jia and Jack live nearby, and that sense of family adds even more warmth to the whole experience (and sometimes, though not always, an extra serve).
The restaurant and the couple’s home sit on a historic block that once housed the tollkeeper’s quarters by the old stone bridge.
They designed and built it together — and you can see their hands in every detail.
With a pitched roof, floor-to-ceiling windows, wide verandahs and views out to the creek, the space blends beautifully into the surrounding landscape.
Expansive lawns, Oscar’s tree swing and thoughtful design touches make it feel both intentional and inviting.
Chaar Long is licensed for just 28 guests per sitting, allowing John and Yao to deliver genuine, attentive service.
The carefully curated drinks list features Thai beers and local wines — many from talented female winemakers such as Nina Stocker (Brave Goose), Narelle King (Tar & Roses) and Sarah Gough (Box Grove).
On the day we visited, Sarah dropped by to deliver wine herself — a lovely reminder of the close-knit, collaborative spirit in Avenel’s food and wine scene.
John and Yao work closely with other local hospitality businesses, supporting one another in a way that feels healthy, respectful and full of potential.
It’s clear: something special is happening in Avenel.
At its heart, Chaar Long is about connection — to culture, to community and to the people around the table.
And that connection is evident in every detail, every dish and every visit.
Food pricing for Chaar Long rated by Jan and Paul: $$
(Expensive $$$, moderate $$, good value $).
Catch them before they’re gone again — curry puffs and spring rolls.
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Rich, spicy and unforgettable laska.
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Crispy pork belly, fresh leaves and that chilli kick.
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Charred chicken to perfection, kissed by Thai chilli magic and fresh slaw.
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Coconut ice-cream with jackfruit and sticky rice.
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